Ristorante Castello
by Frank Quttrone
Tucked away comfortably amid Blue Bell’s business parks, shopping facilities, and executive-style houses is a mid-sized castle that offers culinary delights to those who have fallen under its spell. Ristorante Castello (“castle” in Italian) is now holding court in its eleventh year at the site once warmed by Chef Alison Barshak.
Youthful owner Habib Troudi, whose eight-year reign at the North Wales iteration of the restaurant ended when he decided to stand alone—to leave the shopping center setting for a pleasant courtyard, to offer easier parking for his growing legion of loyalists, says, “We keep growing because I know what our clientele like. The residents of Blue Bell, and the friends they’ve introduced to our restaurant, have been around. They travel, they love eating out, they’re demanding, and they keep coming back.”
They enjoy the courtly service, typified by longtime staff member John O’Hara, a popular regional playwright and actor. They feel at ease in one of the restaurant’s three discrete dining rooms, two of which seat roughly 35 each, while the third can accommodate up to 80 guests. Called “The Great Room,” and graced by a working fireplace and an intimate “library” alcove, it has been drawing a steady stream of banquets, private parties, and business conferences, since it was added last year. And each dining area has its own private rest rooms.
Guests are also pleased by Habib’s BYO practice. Although the restaurant has a liquor license, the owner permits customers to bring their own drinks and charges no corkage fee.
“Although we have a fine wine list,” he says, “there’s no reason we should keep our guests from complementing their meal as they please.”
And needless to say, Ristorante Castello owes the lion’s share of its success to its vaunted kitchen, where Troudi’s dear friend and Tunisian countryman, Adel Khemiri, serves as executive chef and manager. “Adel’s been a great asset to the restaurant. He’s been with me for ten years now. He looks out for me; he has a calm about him that works well with our kitchen staff; he’s creative; and he interprets our northern Italian menu perfectly.”
Adel has become one of the most accomplished Mediterranean chefs in the region. Although Eve and I enjoyed his culinary legerdemain countless times at Venezia Italian Restaurant, the popular Hatboro eatery he once operated, he outdid himself the evening of our most recent visit to Castello. Our starter was a bright, zesty, refreshing Tomato Avocado Salad topped with roasted peppers and shallots.
Aware that the restaurant’s baked and specialty pastas—tortellini, pappardelle, gnocchi, and the like—are all made in house, we were still stunned by the appearance, aroma, and taste of the chef’s homemade special, Arugula Ravioli, stuffed with goat cheese and complemented by sautéed jumbo shrimp in a light lemon white wine sauce.
At Ristorante Castello, every dish is made to order. The kitchen staff takes pride in breaking down a whole side of beef and bringing in the freshest products from local sources. So we were equally delighted with our entrées. Eve enjoyed the Baked Halibut special, encrusted with rosemary and sage and served in a light dry fig mustard cream sauce. For me, the grilled and pounded Veal Medallions topped with sautéed spinach, garlic, and olive oil couldn’t have been more satisfying.
And true to the difference between northern and southern Italian cuisine, as described by our congenial host, Habib Troudi, Eve and I did not feel stuffed. “Northern Italian cuisine tends to be lighter,” he says. “Nothing overwhelms or overpowers the dish. There’s just enough sauce to complement or enhance the flavor. Despite the size of our portions, you can actually see the bottom of your plate. You feel like you can finish your dish—and still have room for dessert!”
Well said! So Eve and I shared a magnificent Banana Bread Pudding stuffed with warm chocolate soufflé and crowned with banana caramel compote and vanilla gelato, accompanied with an aromatic double espresso that recalled the best meal-toppers from the old country.
Troudi says that it’s not difficult to satisfy so many loyal guests for so many years when the restaurant maintains its consistency, thanks to the faithful service of so many longtime staffers. He says that people love the openness of the restaurant—the big windows that brighten every room. They like the menu—from standard items such as grilled scallops topped with smoked paprika, filet mignon au poivre, gnocchi served with gorgonzola sauce, or bronzino encrusted in salt, to regular daily specials, like Chef Adel’s arugula ravioli or halibut encrusted with rosemary and sage.
Ristorante Castello, where warmth is married to unpretentious fine dining and attentive service, is the perfect place to dine alfresco on a cool summer night or to enjoy a large family gathering in air-conditioned comfort.
Ristorante Castello is located at 721 Skippack Pike, Blue Bell, PA 19422; 215-283-9500; www.ristorantecastello.com. Lunch is served daily, 11:30 a.m.–4 p.m. Dinner is served daily from 5 to 10 p.m. Reservations highly recommended, especially on weekends. Available for takeout, catering, conferences, and private parties. Liquor license, but BYOB permitted with no corkage fee.